Monday, December 26, 2011

Blue Hill NYC = An Amazing Gluten Free Meal

Blue Hill's NYC outpost on Washington Pl.
I recently had a meal that was so transcendent that it may very well be the best dining experience I've ever had.  No exaggeration.  I've had great meals at well-known restaurants in New Orleans, Chicago, LA, DC, and here in NY, but this particular dining experience was the culinary equivalent of a religious zealot finding the image of the Virgin Mary in the rusty fender of a '68 Volkswagen Beetle.
Said meal took place at the Greenwich Village outpost of Massachusetts-based Blue Hill Farm.  Tucked away on Washington Place just off 6th Ave, you could easily blow past the place without noticing the unassuming entrance a few steps below street level.  In fact, the only indication that a restaurant resides within is the bronze lettering on the wall that quietly announces "Blue Hill."  
As with many Manhattan establishments, the dining room is a little quirky because it has been shoehorned into the basement of a townhouse, which leads to my only gripe about the experience: The tables are uncomfortably close.  (If I can hear every detail of the real estate deal that the table next to me is discussing and they're speaking at a normal volume, you've packed in too many tables.)  Otherwise, the space itself is warmly decorated and inviting.
Okay, enough about the space.  On to the meal.
As the only Celiac in my party, it was very heartening that our server addressed my allergy as soon as he greeted us.  (It impressed me that he'd obviously consulted with our hostess before making his way to the table.)   He also did a great job of running through the menu with me, letting me know exactly what was gluten free.  But what won me over was him showing up at the table with a plate of gluten free bread and butter.  Major points for that move.
For my appetizer, I began with the Apple & Fennel Soup.  It was like the ideal embodiment of Fall: lightly sweet with just a hint of roasted almond to give it a nutty note.  It was absolutely perfect.
But my entree, the Seared Tuna, absolutely blew my mind.
The fish was cut into perfect little cubes and perfectly seared, creating this little bit of crunch on the outside.  These little morsels were artfully arranged on the plate atop fennel puree along with the most unique presentation of cauliflower that I've ever encountered: each floret was sliced paper thin, giving them an almost snowflake-like appearance, and then seared to give them a crunchiness like popcorn.  The dish was beautiful, full of flavor, and satisfying.
For dessert, I had two perfect scoops of gluten free pear sorbet.  The flavor was as juicy and fragrant as a fresh Bartlett pear and sublimely velvety.  A great palate cleanser. 
As a crowning touch, we were treated to a final "candy course."  My dining companions were given chocolate truffle lollipops, filled with molten chocolate--not gluten free unfortunately.  But, once again, my server made sure I didn't miss out on the fun and brought me 2 tasty little morsels: a cocoa-dusted hazelnut and a piece of toasted sesame brittle.  Both were sweet enough to sate my sweet tooth.
In all, the meal was characterized by great service and artful, flavorful food.
Blue Hill is somewhat pricey, but the experience is completely worth it.  Highly recommended.


75 Washington Pl
(212) 539-1776
www.bluehillfarm.com

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Turkish Delight on the UES

So, I had another one of those "stumble upon" experiences this week.  By that I mean, I was planning on grabbing lunch at a (usually) reliable diner, saw that this old standby now has a "B" sanitation grade, and ended up at a place just around the corner that was head and shoulders above what I would have had at the diner.
The name of this little gem is Beyoglu (pronounced "Bay-OH-loo.")
Borrowing its title from a district in Istanbul, Beyoglu is a Turkish eatery at the corner of E 81st at 3rd Avenue on the UES.  It's one of those neighborhood spots that I've seen filled to the gills with people every time I've passed there, and I've said to myself, "Wonder if they do gluten free?  I'll stop in next time."
Actually, Beyoglu does not have a separate gluten free menu.  However, the hostess and server who greeted me both immediately knew what I was getting at when I told them I had a wheat allergy and pointed out at least a dozen dishes that were inherently safe for me to eat.  (For the most part, the unsafe items revealed themselves pretty clearly on the menu: "cracked wheat taboule" was obviously out, as was the pan-fried, batter-dipped calamari.)
We ended up going with several different small plates, all of them GF, so that we could share and nosh as we wanted.
First, we tried the Sucuk Izgara--a cumin and garlic-spiced cured beef sausage served over some of the best home fries that I've had in quite some time.  While there was a hint of heat, it was nothing that couldn't be tamed by a spoonful of hummus, which had a perfectly creamy texture with just a hint of cumin and garlic.  
Next, we shared the Barbunya Pilaki, which was a light, sunny salad consisting of red kidney beans, carrots, potato, and lemon-infused olive oil, alongside Karides Izgara--grilled shrimp served with lemon wedges and a peppery cocktail sauce that reflected the flavors of the sausage, only kicked up about 5 notches.
Everything was delicious (we cleaned every plate) and priced quite reasonably (plates ranged from $5-$8), the service was fast and very friendly, and the atmosphere was homey and welcoming.  
A great experience overall and worth a repeat visit.

Beyoglu
1431 3rd Ave (at E 81st)
212-650-0850

Beygolu does not have a website.  But check out Zagat.com for its menu.

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Gluten-free Latin-Asian Fusion in Murray Hill

Latin-Asian fusion.
(Okay, okay.  It's not as douchey and pretentious as it sounds.  Stick with me here.)
Zengo is chef Richard Sandoval's newest outpost in Manhattan, and it boasts a fairly substantial gluten free menu that artfully combines those two influences.  (Maybe I shouldn't be amazed that stuff like chorizo and Thai spices go so well together, but I have evidence that under artful direction, they do.)
I started with the Thai Coconut Chicken Soup, which was fairly straightforward in its approach, but tasty.  The basic elements were chicken broth and coconut milk with just a hint of Thai spice--enough to feel a little heat on your lips, but not too spicy--with shredded chicken, shredded carrot, and steamed edamame.  All very flavorful, although I found the shredded chicken and carrot a little difficult to scoop up with the dainty soup spoon that they give you.  I was almost wearing it a couple of times.
For my entree, I ordered the gluten free Pan Roasted Mahi-mahi.  Now, this is where the fusion really came together.  The plate came to the table beautifully presented with a perfect hemisphere of steamed rice and perfectly-cooked mahi-mahi topped with what was described as "Yuzu/Ginger-Enchilado Sauce"--in other words, a lightly gingery take on Cuban Enchilado--a tomato- and seafood-based sauce with green pepper and onion.  (Not exactly sure where the yuzu came in.  I know it's a Japanese citrus fruit, but nothing jumped out as being particularly citrusy.  Not that I would have wanted that flavor to jump out and slap me in the face...)  
In any regard, the aforementioned combo would have been enough to rate it a 4-star dish, but then the little surprise of lightly-sweet grilled plantain tucked under the mahi-mahi filet just cinched the whole thing for me.  An elegant blend of textures, flavors, and presentation.
The atmosphere is relaxed but elegant, too.  The decor is very eye-catching--trendy without being cold or feeling too "of the moment."  The real centerpiece of the place is the giant jellyfish-esque chandelier that is suspended over the dining room.  It's truly a thing to marvel at.
As my dining companion joked after the meal, the space itself at 3rd and E 40th has seen its share of restaurants come and go.  But with the fantastic gluten free meal that I enjoyed, I think if any restaurant could break that curse, it's Zengo.

Zengo
622 3rd Ave (@ E 40th)
212-808-8110


Wednesday, October 12, 2011

A Fantastic Midtown/Kips Bay Eatery (That Gladly Accommodates GF Diners!)

Every so often, you stumble upon a restaurant where you go in with low expectations and you come out a fan.  Such is the case with Cask Bar + Kitchen.
This small eatery, which is quietly tucked away on E 33rd St between Lexington and 3rd, honestly doesn't look like much from the street.  A peek inside reveals a dimly lit setting of dark woods and wrought iron fixtures--it's what I'd picture a wine cellar in 16th century Spain might have looked like, only hipper.  The name also reveals little about the place.  If anything, it sounds like the kind of place where you might find wings n' jalapeño poppers on the menu--bar food, in other words.  For that reason, I thought we might be able to grab a drink and an appetizer (maybe--if they had anything gluten free), and then head elsewhere for our real dinner.
My conversion to being a Cask fan began with the charcuterie plate, which was graciously filled with thin slices of prosciutto, coppa, and bresaola along with green and black olives--all gluten free, I might add.  I washed this down with an Original Sin Hard Cider, which was clearly listed on the menu as being gluten free.
By this point, I was digging their cool soundtrack and had a bottle of GF cider in my belly, so we ordered dinner.
I should note, there is not a separate gluten free menu at Cask.  Also, no food items are specifically listed on the menu as being gluten free.  However, both the hostess and our server reiterated several times that they could alter practically any dish to accommodate my allergy; all we had to do was ask.  As an added safeguard, they ran every one of my menu selections by the chef to double check that it was safe.
Always a sucker for salmon, I ended up ordering a delicious piece of baked Alaskan salmon, served over roasted red beets and pan-seared spinach, accompanied by a side of the most perfectly cooked artichoke risotto that I've tasted in quite some time (creamy without being gloppy, with just a hint of tanginess from the artichokes).  The only alteration to the dish in order to ensure that it was truly gluten free was leaving off a dijon sauce that typically accompanied the fish.  In all honesty, the dish didn't miss it.  In fact, I think the sauce would have been somewhat extraneous, considering how creamy and flavorful the risotto was.  In fact, I'd even tell non-gluten allergic diners to leave off the sauce.
In short, the service was attentive and thoughtful, and the meal was well above average for a place that primarily fancies itself a "bar."  If this is pub grub, it's some of the best I've ever had, and I'll be back again.  Soon.


Cask Bar + Kitchen
167 East 33rd Street
212-300-4924
www.casknyc.com

Saturday, October 1, 2011

Gluten Free Two-fer

Part 1: Celiacs welcome, but leave your cap at the door
Although it's rare for me to dine out two nights in a row these days, I had the chance to try two fantastic restaurants back-to-back this past week.
The first was Nougatine at Jean Georges, just off Columbus Circle at the literal commencement of Central Park West.  The occasion was a friend's 27th birthday, and although I kind of wanted to punch him in the face for lamenting the fact that he was turning 27 (said friend needs to check back with me once he crosses the threshold of 30), I was more than glad to celebrate him and have a delicious meal in a gorgeous setting.
I should mention that, although the setting is indeed beautiful, it is not stuffy.  You can forego the tie and leave the top button unbuttoned.  Hell, you could probably leave the jacket at home, too, unlike the more formal Jean Georges Restaurant next door.  But don't believe any online reviews that call the atmosphere and suggested attire "casual."  While we were waiting to be seated, a tourist, decked out in an A&F baseball cap, made the mistake of popping in and asking the host if he could wear said cap at the bar.  He was unceremoniously told, "No.  You can check it, if you'd like."
Although Nougatine does not have a separate gluten free menu, they were more than willing to accommodate gluten intolerant diners, like yours truly.  A call ahead to the restaurant was all it took to give them a heads up.  In fact, our server had already been informed about my allergy before we were seated and was able to point out every appetizer and entree on the menu that was free of gluten before I even had to ask.  It was truly impressive.
There were other little, subtle things that they did throughout the meal--such as not putting the basket of bread right next to me, knowing that I couldn't indulge--that made the entire evening enjoyable.
As for the meal: Like butt-ah.  
I started with a roasted beet and Greek yogurt salad that was wonderfully sweet and tangy.  I followed that with perfectly cooked Scottish Salmon served with wilted spinach, crispy skillet potatoes, and the most amazing, lick-the-plate-worthy passion fruit puree that was tangy and sweet with just a hint of heat a la jalapeños.  All of this was capped off by a bowl of decadent nectarine sorbet, which tasted like the sweetest, ripest nectarine ever, fresh out of the ice box.
All in all, if you're a Celiac looking to splurge, rest assured that Nougatine will take very good care of you.

Part 2: Viva Mexico!
So, as if gorging myself on Nougatine goodness wasn't enough, I joined friends the following evening for an impromptu late dinner at Rosa Mexicano First Avenue on the East Side.   
Now, as you may know, Rosa Mexicano has several outposts in the city (and along the east coast, I found out).  My first experience was at the one near Lincoln Center, and I can't say that I was overly impressed.  It was chic and trendy with a too-small bar area and a floor-to-ceiling piece of art that involves falling water and tiny men in various stages of a swan dive.  As Moe Szyslak from the Simpsons might put it, "Weird for the sake of weird."  (Those who are fanatics will know this comes from the "Flaming Moe's" episode from season 3...)
But I digress.
The original East Side location barely resembles the West Side trend fest; it is much more subdued, yet thoughtfully upscale.  In other words, no weird-abstract-diver-water sculpture walls, but also no borderline-offensive sombreros & cacti kitsch.
The greatest thing about Rosa Mexicano--and this goes for all locations--is that it has a separate Gluten Free menu that has a huge number of choices to fit a variety of tastes and palates.  If you're vegetarian and gluten free, there's something for you.  If you require that your food had to have a pulse at some point AND you're also gluten free, there's something for you...  You get the drift.
I ordered the tasty Pollo a la Parrilla (aka "Chicken from the Grill")--skewered chicken and poblano peppers marinated in lemon, garlic, and oregano, served over a bed of brown rice.  It was delicious and light, and perfect for a late meal.
The only misstep--and, thankfully, it didn't lead to me getting sick--was that the host forgot to inform the server of my allergy before he took our appetizer order: their signature chips and guacamole, which is prepared fresh at your table.  
About a quarter of the way through diving into the chips and guac (which is chunky and fantastic), the server arrived at the table with a panicked look on his face and inquired about my allergy.  Apparently, the chips hadn't been fried in a separate fryer and the fear was that they had been contaminated.
As I said, I didn't get sick.  But it left me a little wracked with nerves for the remainder of the meal.  I'm sure others of you have experienced this: You put your faith in your server and the chef to deliver a meal that is safe, only to find out that somewhere along the way, the chain of communication was broken, and someone grabbed the wrong dish from the window, or put your entree on the same grill with items dripping in flour, or decided that your plate was missing the hulking dinner roll that all of the other plates received... 
In any regard, the meal at Rosa Mexicano was largely fantastic, and I would definitely give the place another shot.

Nougatine at Jean Georges
1 Central Park West, 
New York, 10023(212) 299-3900 www.jean-georges.com

Rosa Mexicano
1063 1st Avenue
New York, NY 10022
(212) 753-7407





Sunday, September 18, 2011

Two trains leave 125th St, traveling at 45 mph. Which one gets to the gelato stand first?

In general, I avoid the food court at Grand Central Station.  It's a beautiful setting that transports you back to the Gilded Age, but it's also a little sketchy.  Amongst the foreign travelers sketching out their touristy itineraries and Midtown workers scrambling for trains to points suburban, there are a fair number of oddballs.  You get the guy mumbling to himself whilst reading the Post, someone else begging change to fund a trip to Mars, a goth chick trying to pierce her own tongue in the reflection of a table top... You get the drift.

But there are those occasions when you just need some frozen dessert goodness, and no level of weirdness can deter you.

Such is the case with the Ciao Bella Gelato & Sorbet stand.  It's a place you've probably breezed by thousands of times on your way to catch a train yet have never even noticed.  It's tucked away in the northwest corner of the food court, just around the corner from the stairs leading from the main ticketing floor.

So now that you know where it is, what's so great about Ciao Bella?

First and foremost, they are quite forthright about letting you know what is/isn't gluten free.  All of the sorbet flavors are free of wheat and gluten, and a number of gelato flavors are also GF.  Rule of thumb is that if you suspect it has gluten (such as anything with cookies, graham crackers, or dough mixed in), it probably does.  Nevertheless, if you're in doubt, ask the counter staff.  They've never steered me wrong.

Secondly, the flavors are amazing.  My personal fave is the Dark Chocolate Sorbet--totally gluten AND dairy free, and amazingly creamy and richly chocolatey.  But don't overlook some of the other unique flavors, like Prickly Pear (subtly sweet and fruity) or the Blackberry Cabernet (completely velvety, like a frozen glass of wine.)

Ciao Bella Gelato Kiosk
54 Grand Central Terminal
212-867-5311

Monday, September 5, 2011

Gluten Free Risotto in the Village. Subtitle: Man cannot live on breadsticks alone


One of the restaurants I've been wanting to try since I've moved here is Risotteria in Greenwich Village.  Glowing online reviews about the place abound, and word of mouth has been equally enthusiastic.  

In fact, a few weeks ago I was standing on line at the grocery store in Union Square when this stranger standing next to me saw that I had gluten free cookies in my basket, prompting her to ask if I'd been to Risotteria.  When I replied that I hadn't, she practically dropped her basket reaching for my arm.

"I could LIVE on their breadsticks."

So, I finally had a chance to try it Saturday night after plans to go last weekend were thwarted by Hurricane Irene.  (Stupid hurricane...)

Let me start by saying that my meal was pretty good--more about that in second.  But, with all of the hype, I guess I was expecting more.

First of all, Risotteria is housed in a very small space.  Maximum seating capacity is something like 20 people.  So, waits are long--upwards of 45 minutes--even if you're a small party.  And they don't take reservations.  

It also was pretty schwetty inside.  Being that it was my first visit, I'm not sure if this is common or not, but there was absolutely nothing, not even ceiling fans, stirring the air.  We were seated right next to the front door, and I still felt like I was in a sauna.

The service also straddled the line between attentive and invasive.  Case in point: Not 5 seconds after I'd put down my fork from taking my last bite, I had one of the 4 servers/hosts/busboys who kept hovering around the table ask, "Can I take your plate?"  I was still chewing, for God's sake.  

Also, a fairly big pet peeve of mine (and I say this as someone who has worked in food service), the check was placed on the table within 30 seconds of our desserts arriving.  I don't care if your mouth is saying, "I'll leave the check here for whenever you're ready, but take your time," your body language is saying, "Pay up, and get thee out."  Not cool.

All in all, it is a function of the place being so small and so packed.  The palpable feeling is that they are looking to turn tables as fast as possible to serve the throng of people milling around hungrily outside.  I get that.  But the last thing I want to feel is rushed when I'm looking to have a nice dinner with friends.  Furthermore, if I'm paying $17.50 for a bowl of risotto, I'd better be able to enjoy it, dammit.

Speaking of the food...

The breadsticks, which were brought to the table piping hot, are indeed delicious.  They are like foot-long braids of gluten free pizza dough, coated in butter.  Perfectly crunchy on the outside, chewy on the inside.  I, too, could picture surviving on a diet of these alone.

3 Mushroom Risotto at Risotteria
For my entree, I ordered the "3 Mushroom Risotto," with porcini, portobello, and shiitake mushrooms.  The mushrooms lent a nice meaty earthiness to counter the creaminess of the risotto.  But, overall, I found the dish to be a little bland and one-dimensional.  It needed more nuance--a little bite of some sharp cheese or something herby to cut the overwhelming creaminess.  I felt like I was eating a hearty portion of a side dish instead of an entree.

I'm really torn about Risotteria.  Part of me wants to sing its praises because it caters to gluten free lifestyles.  However, the execution of the meal, the service, and the space itself just detracted from the whole experience.  I'm willing to give it another shot, but my expectations are kind of low at this point.


270 Bleecker St, New York, NY 10014
(212) 924-6664
www.risotteria.com

Sunday, August 21, 2011

5 Napkin Burger = Burger Heaven on the Upper West Side

I rarely venture to the Upper West Side.  Not because I dislike this area of town.  Quite the contrary; I love the vibe of the neighborhood.  It's just relatively inconvenient from Roosevelt Island by subway.  (Transfer from the F downtown across the platform to the B or D uptown at Rockefeller Center, then when you get to Columbus Circle, you run like hell to catch the 1 train that is inevitably pulling away from the station...BLAGH!)

Nevertheless, the burger I had last night was worth the hour it took to get from my place to 5 Napkin Burger at W 84th and Broadway.

5 Napkin Burger is known for having some of the best burgers in the city.  (They have sushi on the menu, too.  But when you're at a place called 5 Napkin BURGER, what fool orders sushi?  Am I right?)  Anyway, the fact that they can wear the crown for having one of NYC's best burgers is saying A LOT, considering how many contenders there are.

5 Napkin also has some of the BIGGEST burgers I've ever found at a restaurant.

Just how much cow do you get?  Try 10 ounces of premium ground chuck.  That's more than HALF A POUND of meat for the metrically-challenged, completely grilled to perfection with a nice char on the outside and meaty juiciness sealed within.

Specifically, I went with their signature 5 Napkin Burger, which is topped with Gruyere, caramelized onions, and a dollop of rosemary aioli.  The Gruyere provides a little earthy gooey-ness, compared to the old standby, American cheese.  Then, the caramelized onions bring a sweet note to everything as you get little hints of rosemary from the aioli.  I also snuck a little Grey Poupon onto mine, because I can't have a burger without a little mustard.

But the single thing that makes this burger so good for someone with gluten allergies is the Gluten Free BUN.  Yes, I said BUN.  If you're like me, you've accepted the fact that most restaurants that offer a Gluten Free burger are going to serve you a lonesome patty and your toppings, sans bun.  Occasionally some chef will feel a tinge of pity and plop it all on a bed of lettuce as a consolation prize.

But at 5 Napkin Burger, you get an actual BUN that has an amazing mouthfeel and texture.  It was so good, in fact, that we decided to flag down the manager and have him verify that I'd actually gotten a Gluten Free bun.  (It was.)

While we had him at the table, he ran through a list of what could and couldn't be prepared Gluten Free.  Apparently, any burger--except the Turkey burger, which contains breadcrumbs, and the Ahi Tuna Burger, which is marinated in a ginger soy sauce, can be made Gluten Free.  Same goes for the sushi, which is all Gluten Free and can be paired with tamari instead of soy sauce.  (He actually kept calling it "tahini," but I got his drift.)

My only criticism would be the fries.  They're alright.  But, they're like McDonald's fries--thin, shoestring potatoes that go a little limp after they've been sitting there on your plate for a while.  They also tend toward being a little greasy for my taste.

But, I consider this a minor infraction in light of how good the burger was.  It also might have been the batch I was served.  (I'll have to go back and Quality Test the fries again, I guess...)

The atmosphere is fun and a little up-market, with the decor hearkening to Manhattan butcher shops of the 30s and 40s: shiny white tile, a big chalkboard, meat scales, and, umm...meat hooks hanging from the ceiling.  Probably could have done without that last design touch, but it lends to the authentic feel.

The place appears to get very crowded very quickly.  We went without a reservation and got seated inside immediately at 8pm on a Saturday night.  Total luck.  Because we no sooner slid into our booth that we looked up and saw a line, 10 people deep at the door.  So, do make a reservation well in advance.

Seating is a bit tight and the noise level loud, but if you're in the mood for a fantastic burger, don't hesitate.  5 Napkin Burger is your Gluten Free Burger Mecca.

2315 Broadway
New York, NY 10024
(212) 333-4488
http://5napkinburger.com/upper-west-side-new-york

Tuesday, August 16, 2011

There is such a thing as a (Gluten) free lunch in Chelsea...


In the short time that I have lived in New York, I've been told by at least a dozen people that Chelsea Market is, without question, THE place for food and foodies in the city. So, like some foaming-at-the-mouth tourist looking to catch a glimpse of Alex Guarnaschelli or Anne Burrell fresh from a Food Network taping, I decided to hop on the F Train late on a Sunday morning and go in search of Gluten Free goodness.

If you've not ventured to Chelsea Market, go. The place is like nothing else. Around every turn in this awesomely restored building (which formerly housed the Nabisco Bakeries) are purveyors of gourmet eats. Butchers. Fishmongers. Bakers. Green grocers. Chocolatiers. Gelato-ers. (Gelatorians? Gelatarians??)

So, I wasn't shocked to run across Friedman's Lunch, an unassuming eatery with a clever name (a nod to free-market economist Milton Friedman's famous quip that "There's no such thing as a free lunch"), great comfort food, and a TON of gluten free options. We're talking 75% of the menu can be prepared gluten free. Even the sandwiches.

As much as I kept eyeing the Reuben featuring house-made pastrami on Gluten Free bread (I vow to go back and try this), I was in a brunchy-eggy-cheesy mood.

Right there, smack dab in the middle of the brunch menu, the Truffled Cheese Grits called to me: Hominy grits with a hint of cheese and truffle oil with grilled asparagus, mushrooms, prosciutto, and poached eggs.

Even though my native Manhattanite dining companion warned me against ordering grits north of the Mason-Dixon, they were wonderfully creamy with just a little tanginess. Each forkful had bite size, perfectly tender asparagus tips and sauteed mushrooms. Then every third or fourth bite, the prosciutto would pop up and make a cameo appearance.

I'm not usually a huge fan of poached eggs. I tend to like my eggs scrambled or sunny-side-up for that bit of crispiness to offset the gooeyness. But, this was like a perfect little pillow of egginess perched atop the dish, with an ideal amount of liquid yolk to mix with the grits.

A big A+ for the food.

I also have to give them props for the atmosphere. The service is very good--attentive and friendly without being obnoxious. Repurposed wine bottles are refilled with filtered tap water every few minutes by affable servers in jeans and t-shirts who swing by and ask "How's it going?"

On that note, the overall vibe is very casual and relaxed. Seating in the front half of the restaurant is at a tall communal table, which very much lends to this feeling. (Side note: I've been to some restaurants in the city where the communal thing feels overly trendy and forced. But, sitting shoulder to shoulder with fellow diners as you nosh on comfort food feels very natural at Friedman's.)

Seriously, Celiacs and fellow gluten intolerants: Friedman's is a treat. You have to try this place.

75 Ninth Ave
inside Chelsea Market
(212) 929-7100
www.friedmanslunch.com

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Not So Wild Ginger - Gluten Free Vegan Pan-Asian in Brooklyn

Okay. As much as I like Brooklyn Heights and Boerum/Cobble Hill, being stuck there on a rainy Tuesday for a pep rally-like sales conference is not my idea of fun. In fact, on a professional note, it was an all around awful day for reasons that I won't get into here.

Anyway, rain and my awful employment situation be damned, I took a stroll down Court Street to take in the neighborhood. As dusk began to creep, I realized that I hadn't eaten anything in about 8 hours and was in need of sustenance. But, in this neighborhood that is somewhat known for its pizzerias, finding something that I could eat--save trolling the aisles of the sexy Court Street Trader Joe's for Gluten Free snacks--was going to be tricky.

After some searching, I ended up over on Smith Street near the Bergen subway stop at a place called Wild Ginger.

Their MO: Vegan Pan-Asian cuisine (think: tofu done 50 different ways), served in a dimly-lit, semi-trendy atmosphere. Now, you might be thinking, "Hell, that sounds like an all-veg PF Chang's." And, you wouldn't totally be wrong about this. But, it is small touches--like the soundtrack that eschews Asian pop music or even--shudder--the faceless trip-hop that is cranked out at so many other trying-too-hard-to-be-hip eateries in favor of surprising choices like Gene Autrey or the Dap Kings wafting through the air--that make it feel un-vanilla and very Brooklyn-esque. (Note: There are other outposts of Wild Ginger on Broome St and in Williamsburg, too. And I refuse to refer to the latter as Billyburg. Not happening.)

My first issue was that, as you enter the place, there's no clear indication of what you're supposed to do or where you're supposed to stand. You're just sort of...there.

It also took a good 5 minutes before some guy (he might have worked there, he might have been a regular from the neighborhood, who knows), grabbed a menu and seated me toward the back. The good thing was that he didn't flinch when I asked for the Gluten Free menu. In fact, the GF menu is its own separate menu--not just a back panel on the "regular" menu or some afterthought on copier paper. I have experienced the latter with dread at other eateries here in NYC and elsewhere.

The bad thing about the GF menu: Prices were not accurate. My entree ended up being $2 more than what was listed. The dish was, however, listed correctly on the "regular" menu, which I consulted before paying the bill.

Demerit #2.

Now, for the food. I ordered Sauteed Vegetables and Tofu in a brown kung-po sauce. It was nicely presented and looked very appetizing. The vegetables, which included carrot, celery, zucchini, snow peas, broccoli, and cauliflower, were done nicely: tender, yet still crispy and flavorful. In other words, the carrot was still recognizable as carrot, and not as a pale, floppy imitation of its former self.

The tofu was just...okay. Not amazing, but not inedible. It lacked any kind of seasoning and didn't really add anything, except maybe protein and chewiness, to the dish.

But the real fulcrum of the dish was the kung-po sauce--the thing that would make it work or fail. Unfortunately, it just didn't deliver. I was expecting some sort of nuance--maybe a hint of ginger or five spice to go along with the flavor of sauteed garlic--that would give my palate something to hang its hat on. Although not totally unpleasant, garlic and tamari were the only two flavors that really stood out.

C- for the dish.

All in all, the atmosphere was nice enough to warrant another visit. And the rain and my grumpiness no doubt colored my view of things a bit. So next time I'll seek out something with a little more flavor on Wild Ginger's Gluten Free menu.

Wild Ginger
112 Smith Street
(718) 858-3880




Thursday, July 28, 2011

Fairway UES Has Big Gluten Free Selection


Unless you've been living under a rock, you know that a new Fairway supermarket has opened on the Upper East Side on E 86th between 2nd and 3rd. Likewise, for the past week since the store has opened, it has been mobbed by neighborhood shoppers as well as outer borough looky-loos who just want to say they walked through this food museum.

Honestly, I can't blame them. It is pretty sexy: two sizable floors, filled from floor to ceiling with quality food in a space that is brand spanking new. The customer service is superb, especially right now. The store has brought in additional employees and has posted greeters at the end of each aisle. So, if you even look the least bit confused or lost, there's always someone right there to ask, "Sir, is there a specific product or item I can help you find?" Then, they'll either tell you the exact aisle and shelf or, better yet, lead you right to it. I really dig that.

The prices are darn good, too. After shopping there at least 5 times over the past 14 days (yeah, I know, I need professional help), my total grocery bill each time was at least $8-10 less than shopping at competing stores in the neighborhood and about $5-6 less than if I made the trek to Whole Foods or Trader Joe's in Midtown.

But, seeing as this is a blog about Gluten Free eats, I'll stop gushing about the other aspects of the Fairway experience and tell you about the entire section that's dedicated to Gluten Free food.
On the lower level of the store near the organic section and frozen foods, there is a massive alcove of Gluten Free treats. Everything from cookies, crackers, and chocolate covered pretzels to Gluten Free breakfast bars and dinnertime staples like Quinoa pasta.

They even carry the elusive Jovial brand of fruit- and/or creme- filled cookies from Italy, priced at $3.79 a box. (That's a steal, by the way.) If you've not tried Jovial cookies, each cookie is gone in about a bite and a half, but they're really decadent. So, after 2 or 3, you feel really satisfied instead of gypped.

But, back to Fairway.

In addition to the graciously stocked Gluten Free section, Gluten Free items are found throughout the entire store. Especially the adjacent Organic Foods section, where they stock Gluten Free cereals and frozen dinners from brands like Amy's Gourmet and Gluten Free Cafe.
There were still a few fave brands or specific varieties of things that I couldn't find.

Nevertheless, every employee I asked told me, "Request it, we'll get it for you."

Time will tell if they do.

In any case, they might just live up to the "Like No Other Market" moniker.



Fairway (UES location)
230-240 E. 86th St
212-327-2008

Monday, July 18, 2011

Frozen, Fruity, and Gluten Free

Soft serve fruit.

First time I saw this place on Third Avenue on the Upper East Side (FYI, there's also a store on the NW side of Union Square on 17th and one in the Hamptons), I wrote it off as some new hipster fad. I figured it was sorbet dressed up in skinny jeans and nerd glasses. Or, worse, yet another knock-off of Pinkberry.

Oh, how wrong I was.

I can't say enough about how amazing this product is: It's smooth, creamy, fruity--all without having a bit of dairy or gluten in it.

It's also cholesterol free, if the first two points didn't automatically make you orgasm.

You won't be bowled over with dozens of different flavor choices. They keep it pretty simple, having maybe four or five flavors to choose from on any given day. On my recent visits, the lineup has been banana, pear, mango, and blueberry. All delicious.

Likewise, the ingredient list is simple: fruit, water, and cane sugar. Period.

Side note: Looking at that ingredient lineup, the food analyst in me has a hunch that each flavor contains banana puree, even though the website (http://www.softservefruitco.com/) doesn't specifically say so. I say this not because the flavor of banana jumps out in every bite (in fact, it doesn't, unless you order "banana"). I surmise this simply because the consistency is so velvety.
And since the ingredient list is so short, and "fruit" is cryptically listed as the A-1 ingredient, what else but bananas would have a mouth feel akin to butter fat? Huh? Huh!?

(Not to mention their logo is soft serve poking out of a peeled banana "cone." So, there's that, too.)

Anyway, if you are feeling indulgent or a little gluttonous, you also can top your Soft Serve Fruit with anything from chocolate chips to hot fudge or real maple syrup.

Celiacs and fellow gluten allergy sufferers beware, though: Just because the Soft Serve Fruit itself is gluten free, add-ons like the crushed cookies and pretzels are not. (I've already written them, suggesting that they offer their completely indiscernible Glutino counterparts instead. We'll see what they say...)

UES Store
1371 Third Ave. (between 78th & 79th sts.)
New York, NY 10075
212.794.2200
http://www.softservefruitco.com

Monday, June 27, 2011

Product Review: Tate's Bake Shop GF Chocolate Chip Cookies

Every so often, I'll run across a product that I have to share.
As with gluten free Italian food (see my previous post), gluten free cookies and baked goods in general are always on my radar.
Over the past year or so, I've run across a fair amount of gluten free cookies. My reaction largely has been lukewarm. Some have been flavorful but pasty. Others have been crumbly to the point of being sawdust-like. And, finally, there have been the cardboard hockey pucks masquerading as cookies.
Last week, we spotted Tate's Bake Shop Gluten Free Chocolate Chip Cookies on the Fresh Direct site and decided, what the hell, we'd try 'em.
I'm not usually one for crisp chocolate chip cookies. I tend to like mine more on the chewy side. So, when we tore into the Tate's bag and the first cookie I bit into crunched, I prepared myself to be hugely disappointed.
Then this toffee-like flavor exploded in my mouth with bursts of semi-sweet chocolate in every bite. The flavor was more like a Heath Bar with a crunchy cookie texture than a chocolate chip cookie.
Of course, I had a second one, just to make sure the first one wasn't a fluke...
My mom would probably kill me for saying this, but it was better than her chocolate chip cookies.
Anyway, there are 14 in a bag. They're satisfyingly sized at about 3-4 inches in diameter, so it definitely is more than a bite. Each cookie is 80 calories; but, who ever expected chocolate chip cookies to be health food?
Highly recommended!

Order them here!

Sunday, June 26, 2011

Oh! SoHo Dosas

So, I have a new obsession: Dosas. But not just any dosas. I like--no, scratch that--CRAVE the ones at Hampton Chutney Co. on Prince Street in SoHo.

Like so many of the restaurants I try nowadays, Hampton Chutney was a find via Google search (It is result #3 when you search "gluten free SoHo NYC.") And, as the Google Local (or Google Places or Google Whatever-the-hell-they're-calling-it-this-week) reviews attest, its menu is filled with tasty dishes made with fresh, organic ingredients, many of which are inherently gluten free, or can be altered ever so slightly to render them completely gluten free.

What you'll also glean from these reviews is that the cuisine is not exactly "authentic." Although, I wouldn't go so far as the bitchy reviewer who deemed it "faux Indian made by yuppies." (Ouch. Harsh much?) In reality, Hampton Chutney takes big cues from traditional Indian food and then throws in Americanized touches, occasionally dialing down the heat for Western palates without sacrificing a lot of flavor. For me, this equals a perfect marriage and perfect lunch fare.

First time visiting Hampton Chutney in SoHo (they also have an outpost on Amsterdam Ave on the UWS), I went around 2pm on a Saturday. Even at this late lunch hour, there was a sizable line poking out the front door and down the sidewalk. A great sign at any time of day.

Also, I have to mention how cool it was to see everyone from elderly grandparents with rugrats in tow to gay couples standing in line for the place. Granted, it has to do with the neighborhood it's in, but it's the vibe of the place itself.

Inside, the décor is trendy in a nondescript way, but the atmosphere is cozy. Tables are huddled together in a communal kind of way. I found myself sharing a tiny tray table with a chatty Australian couple.

For an extra touch of hipness, menu items are written in chalk on a blackboard that dangles precariously from the ceiling above the cashiers.

On that note, nothing strikes fear in my gut like walking into a restaurant that claims to accommodate gluten-intolerant patrons, only to notice that nothing on the menu is labeled to indicate the presence of allergens. I did, however, spot a sign at the counter that blithely stated: “Have Questions? Ask!”

Ask? As in, hold up the line of thirty hungry New Yorkers behind me to quiz the college kids behind the counter about their knowledge of gluten?

I envisioned myself being hogtied and ridden out on a rail.

Approaching the counter, I apprehensively asked the skater punk kid taking orders what was safe for me to eat. Without hesitation, he gestured to the chalkboard.

“Everything on our menu is gluten free, except for our deli-style sandwiches, and those are prepared on a separate grill.”

It might as well as have been Puccini coming out of his mouth. He even knew that gluten-free foods prepared on the same grill as foods containing gluten can result in cross-contamination. A+ for the skater punk and for Hampton Chutney Co. for properly prepping its wait staff.

After a few more questions—and no one throttled me for my inquisitiveness, by the way—he recommended I order a seasonal specialty of theirs: A butternut squash, mushroom, spinach, and cheddar-filled dosa—which for the uninitiated is a crêpe-like pancake made from lentil flour and water, and grilled golden brown.

The satisfying and flavorful dosa was savory but not spicy, which, as I noted above, might have disappointed someone seeking Calcutta-in-August-type heat; however, it was perfect for my palate.

The one thing that the skater punk and the eatery’s many web reviewers neglected to mention is the sheer size of the dosas at Hampton Chutney Co. They are more than a foot long. They overhang your plate and the orange plastic cafeteria tray beneath. They tastily invade the space of others sitting next to you and tempt them to steal stealth bites of its cricket bat-sized goodness.

They’re pretty big, in other words.

Despite my dosa’s eye-popping dimensions, its deliciously light consistency made wolfing down the entire thing (yeah, I ate the whole damn thing), accompanied by an equally tasty side of subtly sweet pumpkin chutney, feel not so gluttonous.

Gluten free food bigger than your head and sharing a table with a pleasant couple from Australia, all for under $10?

Win.


Hampton Chutney Co.
68 Prince Street
(212) 226-9996
www.hamptonchutney.com

Saturday, June 18, 2011

GF Panini=NOM NOM NOM

I love Italian food. In fact, it's probably my favorite cuisine on the planet.

Trust me, the irony isn't lost on me that I'm in love with food that is largely based around bread and pasta.

That's why one of my constant quests is to find formidable gluten free Italian.

It's not that gluten free Italian doesn't exist; it is not impossible to find. Run a Google search for the "gluten free Italian" + NYC, and you'll get at least a dozen results, probably within delivery distance to your front door.

But it is hard to find GF Italian done right. In my experience, if the taste is right, then the texture is all wrong. Or, if the texture is close, then someone screws it up by tossing vegan cheese or some similar abomination into the mix.

On that note, I've been craving panini for a while. To me, there's nothing quite like one of these grilled Italian sandwiches to fill the cavity and tempt the tastebuds. When done right, they're the perfect combo of crunchiness and gooeyness and savoriness. I haven't had one in over a year, simply because I haven't found a place that could do GF panini justice.

Tragic, I know.

So, I'm out in Long Beach at a friend's place a few days ago, and I run across a place along the strip on Park Avenue touting "GLUTEN FREE PANINI."

My inner skeptic immediately thought, "Yeah, right. How good could this be?"

Then I read the menu posted on the door of La Bottega Italian Gourmet and witnessed the cavalcade of ingredients: Prosciutto, figs, fresh mozzarella, artichokes, speck... They even had roast suckling pig as a choice, for crying out loud.

So, I ordered a "Prosciutto e Pere": Thinly-sliced Prosciutto, sliced red pears, and Gorgonzola on gluten free ciabatta bread. And I was not disappointed. In fact, I was blown the hell away.

Granted, the ciabatta was not exactly like its glutenous cousin--it definitely was more dense--the exterior crunch and the mouthfeel overall were fantastic. And, the ingredients inside were a perfect marriage of salty, sweet, and tangy. Kudos to whoever decided that these three ingredients would work well together. (Honestly, I'd suggest changing the name of the sandwich to "Menage a Trois" if it weren't a family establishment.)

Speaking of being a family establishment, the restaurant was founded by Giuseppe & Marisa Ruta, a young couple who originally hail from Italy. A New York story in every way, Giuseppe arrived in Long Island in 1993, started out as a busboy at a restaurant, worked his way up to manager, then decided to realize his dream of opening his own place in 2003 with wife Marisa in the kitchen. Today, they have--are you ready for this?--18 restaurants across Long Island and Queens!

But, I wondered where the passion for Gluten Free came from, because their menu literally has more items that can be prepared sans gluten than can't.
According to the restaurant staff, Giuseppe is himself allergic to gluten and wanted to make sure others who love Italian food could have authentic, good-tasting options.

Awesome, right?

So, if you happen to be in Queens or Long Island, find your nearest location. It will restore your faith in gluten free Italian food, like it did for me.

Mangia!


La Bottega Italian Gourmet - Long Beach
36 East Park Avenue
Long Beach, NY 11561-3501
(516) 442-0982
www.labottegagourmet.com