Gluten-free Latin-Asian Fusion in Murray Hill

Latin-Asian fusion.

(Okay, okay.  It's not as douchey and pretentious as it sounds.  Stick with me here.)

Zengo is chef Richard Sandoval's newest outpost in Manhattan, and it boasts a fairly substantial gluten free menu that artfully combines those two influences.  (Maybe I shouldn't be amazed that stuff like chorizo and Thai spices go so well together, but I have evidence that under artful direction, they do.)

I started with the Thai Coconut Chicken Soup, which was fairly straightforward in its approach, but tasty.  The basic elements were chicken broth and coconut milk with just a hint of Thai spice--enough to feel a little heat on your lips, but not too spicy--with shredded chicken, shredded carrot, and steamed edamame.  All very flavorful, although I found the shredded chicken and carrot a little difficult to scoop up with the dainty soup spoon that they give you.  I was almost wearing it a couple of times.

For my entree, I ordered the gluten free Pan Roasted Mahi-mahi.  Now, this is where the fusion really came together.  The plate came to the table beautifully presented with a perfect hemisphere of steamed rice and perfectly-cooked mahi-mahi topped with what was described as "Yuzu/Ginger-Enchilado Sauce"--in other words, a lightly gingery take on Cuban Enchilado--a tomato- and seafood-based sauce with green pepper and onion.  (Not exactly sure where the yuzu came in.  I know it's a Japanese citrus fruit, but nothing jumped out as being particularly citrusy.  Not that I would have wanted that flavor to jump out and slap me in the face...)  

In any regard, the aforementioned combo would have been enough to rate it a 4-star dish, but then the little surprise of lightly-sweet grilled plantain tucked under the mahi-mahi filet just cinched the whole thing for me.  An elegant blend of textures, flavors, and presentation.

The atmosphere is relaxed but elegant, too.  The decor is very eye-catching--trendy without being cold or feeling too "of the moment."  The real centerpiece of the place is the giant jellyfish-esque chandelier that is suspended over the dining room.  It's truly a thing to marvel at.

As my dining companion joked after the meal, the space itself at 3rd and E 40th has seen its share of restaurants come and go.  But with the fantastic gluten free meal that I enjoyed, I think if any restaurant could break that curse, it's Zengo.

Zengo

622 3rd Ave (@ E 40th)

212-808-8110

Website

Gluten-free menu (PDF)